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Draping, also known as moulage, is a fashion design technique that involves working with fabric directly on a mannequin, ‘sculpting’ the toile on a dress form. Imagination and freedom are the key principles of this process, allowing the designer to start from an idea and change it as the garment progresses. Pieces take shape inch by inch on the dress form, going directly from sketch to fabric. Using the intricate process of draping, this extensively illustrated publication is an essential step-by-step guide for students, couture connoisseurs and fashion professionals who want to delve deeper into a technique used by prestigious fashion houses around the globe. It offers everything readers need to learn about the principles of draping and to gain a solid foundation for making their own imaginative pieces without limiting their creativity.
Danilo Attardi is a well-known Italian fashion designer, consultant and professor. His innate passion and vocation for fashion emerged in his mother’s boutique. During his first year as a fashion student, he took part in AltaRoma, AltaRoma, Italy's most important fashion show, then went on to establish his own label, Danilo Attardi Studio, after having completed his studies in Rome, Milan and Florence. In addition to designing collections, Attardi teaches modelling and fashion design techniques and advises companies related to the fashion industry, including, Brunello Cucinelli, Max Mara, Moncler, Benetton, Miroglio Group, Saint Laurent and Red Valentino.
Index. Introduction. Work tools. Dress stands. Muslin fabric. Working on the bias. Other tools. How to detect and mark the principal points on the dress stand. Practical advice. The decisive cut. Industrialization and laying out of the pattern. Research and study of the model. Preparation of the toile to be modeled on the dress stand. Sheath dress. Positioning the toile to be modeled. How to make darts. How to join the front and back. Reference points. Industrialization and laying out of the pattern. Assembly and testing of the toile-pattern. Cross pleats. Bodice with cross pleats. Preparation of the toile to be modeled. How to cross the pleats. Locating and cutting the bottom of the pleat. Reference points. Completion of the prototype. Tailoring solutions. Industrialization and laying out of the pattern. One-shoulder bodice. Asymmetric one-shoulder bodice. Learning how to move the toile. One-shoulder bodice - back. Reference points. Industrialization and laying out of the pattern. Draping. Draped one-shoulder dress. How to create draping. Pleats on the straight grain. Reference points. Industrialization and laying out of the pattern. Knots. Top with a central knot. Preparation of the toile to be modeled. Reference points. Collars. Backless dress with high neck at the front. Preparation of the toile to be modeled. Constructing the collar. Reference points. Industrialization and laying out of the pattern. Draping to add volume. Dress with voluminous draping. Preparation of the toile to be modeled. Shaping the bodice with a large draped pleat. Bodice back. Shaping the skirt. Reference points. Industrialization and laying out of the pattern. Bodice with an applied geometric form. Preparation and shaping of the toile. Basic sleeve. Preparation of the toile to be modeled. Reference points. Raglan sleeve. Reference points to be added. Preparation of the toile to be modeled.