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A very useful step-by-step manual for mastering the creation of knitted garments using a knitting machine in a new updated edition.
In the world of textiles, knitted fabric is one of the most complicated materials to work with but also one of the most used. This is a book for all fashion lovers who, while fascinated by knitted fabric, have not dared to venture into this field, as well as for advanced and professional knitters who want to systematically round off their knowledge. It includes all the steps necessary to create a knitted garment, from the choice of yarn to manufacturing apparel, explaining such things as how to use a flatbed knitting machine correctly and the linking, cutting, sewing and, ultimately, ironing of knitted garments. The book not only takes into account how crucial it is to recognize and develop a stitch. It also acknowledges the importance of knowing how to represent stitches for different machines in a useful way. For the first time, the author describes the various stitches in a clear and well-structured manner with a language of symbols developed for use with all kinds of studio and domestic knitting machines regardless of the brand: Brother, Silver Reed, Passap, Coppo and Dubied. The book includes examples of working with traditional materials like wool, alpaca, cotton and linen but also encourages experimenting with paper, plastic materials and vegetal and metallic yarns to create texture, three-dimensional effects and unusual volumes.
7 PREFACE
9 Carriage Description
10 Coppo Carriage Description
12 Dubied Carriage Description
14 Passap Carriage Description
16 Silver Reed Carriage Description
18 Brother Carriage Description
21 SLOPES
23 Technical Terminology
24 Comments on Sloped Cast Off Stitch
25 Calculate the Slope Gradient
26 Width and Depth
27 Width and Depth Measurements Combined
28 The Shoulder Slope
28 Slope with closure on each row
33 Slope with closure every 2 rows
40 How Tight to Cast Off
41 HOW TO UNLOAD STITCHES AND CAST ON AGAIN WHILE YOU
43 Steps
45 Needles, Knitting, Stitch Size and Yarn
47 Regular Selection of Unloaded Stitches
49 Irregular Selection of Unloaded Stitches
51 Casting Off and Reactivating Needles
53 Unloading Stitches, and Needles That Are Not in Us
55 Stitches Unloaded Vertically On a Flat Rib Base
57 Stitches Unloaded Vertically in Two Colours
59 Unloading Stitches Horizontally with a Ribbed Sect
61 Unloading Stitches Horizontally with a Staggered S
63 Unloading Stitches to Create a Bubble Effect
65 Unloading Stitches to Create an Alternative Bubble
67 Unloading Stitches to Create an Alternating Bubble
69 Unload Stitches Diagonally
71 Creative Swatches with Unloaded Stitches
75 Stitches Unloaded Alternately on both Needlebeds on both Needlebeds on a 5x4 Rib Base
76 Hemstitch and Four-Sided Stitch Technique on Knitted Fabric
78 Knitting a Top
79 Using a Linking Machine
83 INCREASES AND DECREASES
86 Selvedge Increases with Activated Needles
94 Selvedge Increases with Tacked / Carried Over Stitch
97 Internal Increase Made by Transferring Stitches
101 Diagrams of Increases
102 Decreases by Transferring or Closing Stitches
104 Examples of Decreases
109 Eyelet Stitch
116 Geometric Shapes in Clothing
116 Example 1 - Scarf
118 Example 2 - Poncho
120 Example 3 – Jumper
122 Example 4 – Dress with Large Collar
126 Example 5 – Dress (Skirt and Top Joined at the Waist)
128 Example 6 – Shawl
130 Example 7 – Pullover
132 Example 8 – Sweater and Full Skirt
135 NECKLINE, SLEEVES, FINISH
137 Tailoring Methods
144 Examples of Necklines
145 Example 1 Crew Neck Decreased in Selvedge
146 Example 2 Crew Neck with Chain Stitch Closure and Decreased by Transferring 4-Stitches
147 Example 3 Crew Neck with Simulation of Decrease with 4-Needle Punch
148 Example 4 Cut-Out Crew Neck
149 Example 5 Crew Neck with Central Stitch Lock Suspension and Internal Drop
150 Example 6 Crew Neck with Suspended Stitches
151 Finishes
153 DOUBLE-NEEDLEBED KNITTING MACHINES: CASTING ON, SELVEDGES, RACKING, TUBULAR STITCHES
157 Plain Knit
158 Ottoman
160 Pleats
161 Setting Up
164 Cast on with Waste Thread on Brother, Silver and Passap Machines
165 Carriage Casting-On Settings for Brother, Silver Reed and Passap Machines
166 Cast On with Waste Thread on Coppo and Dubied Machines
167 Carriage Casting-On Settings for Coppo and Dubied Machines
169 Different Needle Settings for Casting On Various Structures
174 Selvedge for the Start of the Knitted Fabric
176 Tube with Closed Starting Point
181 SUSPENSIONS AND PARTIAL MACHINING
185 Example 1 Suspension for Cut-Out Necklines
186 Example 2 Various Applications with Partial Machining and Suspensions
188 Example 3 Inlay Effect
189 Example 4 Three-Dimensional Structures
192 Example 5 Variations
197 KNITTING WITH COPPO AND DUBIED MACHINES
200 How to Start Working and Position the Comb
201 Start with Waste Thread on a Selection of All Activated Needles
202 Selvedge
205 Swatch 1
207 Swatch 2
209 Swatch 3
211 Swatch 4
213 Swatch 5 with Needlebed Displacement
215 Swatch 6
217 Swatch 7
219 Swatch 8 – Contoured Effect
221 Swatch 9 – Tubular Stitch for Bag Effect
223 HOW TO MAKE KNITTED FABRIC
226 Treat the Yarn with Paraffin Wax
228 Sample of Stocking Stitch for Calculating Thread Yield
230 Sample of Ribbed Stitch for Calculating Thread Yield
232 Different Structures and Knitted Yields
234 Diagrams Showing Widths, Lengths and Depths
236 Widths, Lengths and Depths of the Front, Back and Sleeve
238 Further Details on How to Make the Back, Front and Sleeve
247 The Didactic Method
248 Simple T-Shirt with no Shoulder Slope
252 Fitted Sweater with Raglan Sleeves and Polo Neck
254 English Measurements Conversion Table