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Bracelets are the focus of this latest instalment of Nicolás Estrada’s series on contemporary jewellery. This book confirms that auteur jewellery is currently flourishing. This collection of bracelets that come from all over the world and showcase totally different styles will surprise readers with its freshness, diversity (with plenty of materials and approaches, such as classic gold, silver and precious stones, as well as paper, wood, plastic and resins) and colourfulness. This is a comprehensive selection of what is happening in the world of auteur jewellery right now and is part of our ongoing series which constitutes an overview on contemporary jewellery.
Jewelry designer Johanna Törnqvist makes bracelets out of cast-off packaging materials, while Elvire Blanc Briand finds inspiration in pastry-making techniques. The results can be seen in the book “New Bracelets” (Promopress), edited by Colombia-born jewelry designer Nicolás Estrada, which features more than 400 pieces from 200 artists. Writing about her work, Nóra Tengely asks: What if we picked jewelry “not in accordance with sight, but with other senses”? Her bracelets are named after sensations that they mimic, like a “caress” bracelet made of brass and feathery polyester and a “tickle” bracelet that consists of five balloons tied to a brass circle. Steven Parker’s “Egyptian Bracelet”—made of vermeil, lapis lazuli, enamel, brass, steel and quartz—contains stylized hooded cobras and hieroglyphics that contain a riddle. Gigi Mariani also looks back millennia with “Stonehenge,” a ring of six prehistoric-looking blocks whose dark surface hides silver and yellow gold. Other artists bring a sharp sense of humor. In “Body Museum” by Wei Si of China, a thin traditional bracelet comes inside its own boxy glass display case, which is also part of the jewelry.
By Peter Saeger (Wall Stret Journal, 03/06/2021)
Nicolás Estrada (Medellin, 1972) studied artistic jewellery at the Escola Massana in Barcelona (Spain). He has trained in many technical areas of jewellery, as well as in local traditional techniques. His works can be found in galleries around the world, from Glasgow to Riga, San Francisco or Barcelona. His pieces are handmade, personal and transgressive. As an editor, Nicolas has curated New Rings (2012), New Earrings, (2013), New Brooches (2018) and New Necklaces (2019).