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Developed by fashion designer and teacher Dominique Pellen, the patternmaking method introduced in this book is explained in a simple, clear, precise, highly detailed way, covering all the information necessary for creating different bodices, sleeves and collars for womenswear.
This book contains the ideal method for creating base patterns to tailor bodices, sleeves and collars to different contemporary styles and modern designs. It covers the information necessary for drafting flat patterns for nearly every form there is in a progressive way in terms of difficulty and can easily be adapted to all skill levels. Developed by fashion designer and teacher Dominique Pellen after countless years of experience in the studio and in the classroom, the method for the creation and adaptation of flat patterns shown here is suitable for a wide audience, including professionals, students and basically anyone who loves to sew. This expanded and updated volume on bodices, sleeves and collars is the second in a series of womenswear guides that will explore the exciting world of garment-making, a gateway designed to help fashion design students and sewing lovers understand and design patterns on their own.
<p>BASE PATTERNS FOR BODICES</p>
<p>Measurements for making the bodice base pattern<br /> Bodice base pattern<br /> Dart pivoting:<br /> Dart pivoting and dart rotation (bodice ending at the waist)<br /> Transferring a little dart value into the armhole, with sleeve<br /> Dividing a shoulder dart to create a side dart<br /> Multiple shoulder dart division to create five small darts<br /> Dividing a waist dart to create three darts in the same place<br /> Dividing a waist dart to create three asymmetrical darts on the neckline<br /> Distancing darts from the bust point<br /> Incurved or broken darts<br /> Converting darts to gathers<br /> Dart pivoting and dart rotation (full bodice ending at large hip level)<br /> Shoulder blade dart manipulation (to back waist of bodice)<br /> Five-piece bodice<br /> Bodice base with two front and back waist darts<br /> Classical blouse from the bodice base<br /> Grandfather-shirt from the bodice base<br /> Raglan construction from the bodice and short sleeve base patterns<br /> </p>
<p>SLEEVES</p>
<p>Short sleeve base pattern<br /> How to flare the short sleeve base:<br /> Balloon sleeve<br /> Puffed sleeve<br /> Butterfly sleeve<br /> Glove sleeve, true bias and straight grain<br /> Leg-of-mutton sleeve<br /> Classical blouse sleeve with added cuff<br /> Shaped cuff<br /> Simplified blouse sleeve with straight sleeve end<br /> </p>
<p>COLLARS</p>
<p>Closed blouse collar with collar stand<br /> Closed blouse collar<br /> Open blouse collar<br /> Base for Peter Pan, Roll and Bertha collars:<br /> Peter Pan collar<br /> Roll collar<br /> Bertha collar<br /> Separate raised collar with an open neckline<br /> Flared high collar<br /> Medicis collar<br /> Sailor collar<br /> Funnel neck<br /> Cowl neck</p>