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The Dutch Hatmakers of Late Medieval and Tudor London
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Uncovers the remarkable lives and writings of immigrant tradesmen, showing how they adapted to their new environment and responded to the challenges they faced.At the end of the Middle Ages, a grou...
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15 August 2023

Uncovers the remarkable lives and writings of immigrant tradesmen, showing how they adapted to their new environment and responded to the challenges they faced.
At the end of the Middle Ages, a group of hatmakers from the Low Countries migrated across the North Sea to London. These men brought with them new skills and technologies, unknown to English artisans, becoming the first to manufacture brimmed felts hats in England. However, though their wares were immediately popular with English consumers, from courtiers to ordinary people, they faced an economic environment in London that restricted and sometimes completely disallowed the production and retail of their goods. In the early years of the sixteenth century, the hatmakers' desire to remain independent from regulation and governance by London civic guilds led to their formation of a craft association of their own. The Hatmakers' fraternity of St James operated for about a decade, until in 1511 the royal council mandated their amalgamation with and subordination to the powerful London Haberdashers' Company. In their short period of independence, the Hatmakers' guild wrote bilingual ordinances, in English and Dutch, regulating the craft of hatmaking in London. The small parchment booklet in which they wrote the ordinances, now housed in the London Guildhall Library, contains more than a simple list of craft rules: it reveals how these Dutch craftsmen negotiated their immigrant lives in both the specifics of their artisanal practice and the broader social and linguistic realities of their daily interactions.
This book, uniting historical and philological approaches, uncovers the remarkable lives and writings of these tradesmen, showing how they adapted to their new environment and reacted to the challenges they faced. It also presents a modern edition of the texts of the Hatmakers' guild book.
Open Access to this volume will be available under the Creative Commons License: CC BY-NC-ND
At the end of the Middle Ages, a group of hatmakers from the Low Countries migrated across the North Sea to London. These men brought with them new skills and technologies, unknown to English artisans, becoming the first to manufacture brimmed felts hats in England. However, though their wares were immediately popular with English consumers, from courtiers to ordinary people, they faced an economic environment in London that restricted and sometimes completely disallowed the production and retail of their goods. In the early years of the sixteenth century, the hatmakers' desire to remain independent from regulation and governance by London civic guilds led to their formation of a craft association of their own. The Hatmakers' fraternity of St James operated for about a decade, until in 1511 the royal council mandated their amalgamation with and subordination to the powerful London Haberdashers' Company. In their short period of independence, the Hatmakers' guild wrote bilingual ordinances, in English and Dutch, regulating the craft of hatmaking in London. The small parchment booklet in which they wrote the ordinances, now housed in the London Guildhall Library, contains more than a simple list of craft rules: it reveals how these Dutch craftsmen negotiated their immigrant lives in both the specifics of their artisanal practice and the broader social and linguistic realities of their daily interactions.
This book, uniting historical and philological approaches, uncovers the remarkable lives and writings of these tradesmen, showing how they adapted to their new environment and reacted to the challenges they faced. It also presents a modern edition of the texts of the Hatmakers' guild book.
Open Access to this volume will be available under the Creative Commons License: CC BY-NC-ND
Price: $29.99
Pages: 176
Publisher: Boydell & Brewer Inc.
Imprint: Boydell Press
Publication Date:
15 August 2023
Trim Size: 9.21 X 6.14 in
ISBN: 9781837650804
Format: Paperback
BISACs:
HISTORY / Europe / Great Britain / Norman Conquest to Late Medieval (1066-1485), European history: medieval period, middle ages, BUSINESS & ECONOMICS / Economic History, HISTORY / Europe / Great Britain / Tudor & Elizabethan Era (1485-1603), LITERARY CRITICISM / Medieval, BUSINESS & ECONOMICS / Industries / Fashion & Textile Industry, Economic history
The authors' evenly weighted combination of materials, from analytical frameworks to historical vignettes, helpful maps, and a bilingual edition of the extant texts, could be deployed in the classroom as an exemplary case study, offering in compact form a complete sense of the life and documents of a discrete subculture amid the hustle of premodern London life.
— STUDIES IN MEDIEVAL AND RENAISSANCE TEACHING (SMART)
Ce livre constitue un modèle de collaboration académique et scientifique... pour le plus grand bénéfice d'une meilleure compréhension du passé. La conjugaison des compétences scientifiques et de méthodes propres à chaque domaine... donne aux ordonnances... une profondeur et un sens historique qu'elles n'auraient pu obtenir par une seule analyse historienne ou linguistique.
The book stands as a model of academic and scholarly collaboration... to the great benefit of achieving a deeper understanding of the past. Combining scholarly expertise and methodological approaches from each field gives the ordinances a depth and historical meaning they could never have achieved through historical or linguistic analysis alone.
— SOCIAL HISTORY
— STUDIES IN MEDIEVAL AND RENAISSANCE TEACHING (SMART)
Ce livre constitue un modèle de collaboration académique et scientifique... pour le plus grand bénéfice d'une meilleure compréhension du passé. La conjugaison des compétences scientifiques et de méthodes propres à chaque domaine... donne aux ordonnances... une profondeur et un sens historique qu'elles n'auraient pu obtenir par une seule analyse historienne ou linguistique.
The book stands as a model of academic and scholarly collaboration... to the great benefit of achieving a deeper understanding of the past. Combining scholarly expertise and methodological approaches from each field gives the ordinances a depth and historical meaning they could never have achieved through historical or linguistic analysis alone.
— SOCIAL HISTORY
Preface
Part I: Study
1. Citizen Guilds, Stranger Artisans, and the Hat Trade in London, circa 1500
2. The Formation of the Hatmaker's Fraternity
3. The Hatmakers and the 1511 Agreement
4. The Manuscript
5. The Linguistic Interest of the Bilingual Ordinances
Conclusion
Part II: Texts
Editorial Conventions
The Bilingual Ordinances of the Hatmakers
The Agreement with the Haberdashers
The Oath of the Wardens of the Haberdashers
Bibliography
Index
Part I: Study
1. Citizen Guilds, Stranger Artisans, and the Hat Trade in London, circa 1500
2. The Formation of the Hatmaker's Fraternity
3. The Hatmakers and the 1511 Agreement
4. The Manuscript
5. The Linguistic Interest of the Bilingual Ordinances
Conclusion
Part II: Texts
Editorial Conventions
The Bilingual Ordinances of the Hatmakers
The Agreement with the Haberdashers
The Oath of the Wardens of the Haberdashers
Bibliography
Index