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Yerba Mate
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Like coffee or tea, yerba mate is one of the world's most beloved caffeinated beverages. Once dubbed a "devil's drink" by Spanish missionaries in South America only to be later hailed by capitalist...
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24 January 2023

Like coffee or tea, yerba mate is one of the world's most beloved caffeinated beverages. Once dubbed a "devil's drink" by Spanish missionaries in South America only to be later hailed by capitalists and politicians as "green gold," it has a long and storied history. And no country consumes and celebrates yerba mate quite like Argentina.
Yerba Mate is the first book to explore the extraordinary history of this iconic beverage in Argentina from the precolonial period to the present. From yerba mate's Indigenous origins to its ubiquity during the colonial era, from its association with rural people and the poor in the late nineteenth century to its resurgence in the last years of the twentieth century, Julia Sarreal meticulously documents yerba mate's consumption, production, and cultural importance over time. Yerba Mate is the definitive history of this popular beverage and social practice, and it tells a fascinating story about race, culture, and how a drink helped forge the national identity of one of the world's most dynamic countries.
Yerba Mate is the first book to explore the extraordinary history of this iconic beverage in Argentina from the precolonial period to the present. From yerba mate's Indigenous origins to its ubiquity during the colonial era, from its association with rural people and the poor in the late nineteenth century to its resurgence in the last years of the twentieth century, Julia Sarreal meticulously documents yerba mate's consumption, production, and cultural importance over time. Yerba Mate is the definitive history of this popular beverage and social practice, and it tells a fascinating story about race, culture, and how a drink helped forge the national identity of one of the world's most dynamic countries.
Price: $95.00
Pages: 394
Publisher: University of California Press
Imprint: University of California Press
Series: California Studies in Food and Culture
Publication Date:
24 January 2023
Trim Size: 9.00 X 6.00 in
ISBN: 9780520379275
Format: Hardcover
"Yerba Mate is the first book to chart the captivating journey of Argentina’s cherished caffeinated beverage from its indigenous roots to the modern day. Through meticulous documentation, author Julia Sarreal showcases how yerba mate has intertwined with Argentina’s cultural and racial dynamics. She sheds light on yerba mate’s transformative role in shaping the country’s national identity and its present ubiquity."
Julia J.S. Sarreal is Associate Professor at Arizona State University and author of The Guaraní and Their Missions: A Socioeconomic History. She has a Ph.D. in History from Harvard University and teaches classes on Latin American History and Latin American Studies. Dr. Sarreal first tried yerba mate as a Peace Corps volunteer in Curuguaty, Paraguay. Her intellectual interest in the beverage was sparked while living in Buenos Aires and working on her dissertation about the Guaraní missions.
Contents
Acknowledgments
Introduction
1 • From Indigenous Staple to Colonial Commodity
2 • Tool of Empire
3 • Borderland Production and the Struggle to Form an Argentine Nation
4 • Gaucho Mythology and the Drink of the New Argentines
5 • Profits and Nationalism: The Rise of Green Gold in Argentina’s Belle Epoque
6 • Yerba Regulation, Nationalism, and the Fall of Laissez-Faire Ideology
7 • Yerba Workers as a Symbol of Capitalist Exploitation
8 • Modernity, Mass Politics, and Mate’s Decline
9 • The Rebirth of Mate with Democracy, Economic Crisis, and Globalization
Afterword
Notes
Bibliography
Index
Acknowledgments
Introduction
1 • From Indigenous Staple to Colonial Commodity
2 • Tool of Empire
3 • Borderland Production and the Struggle to Form an Argentine Nation
4 • Gaucho Mythology and the Drink of the New Argentines
5 • Profits and Nationalism: The Rise of Green Gold in Argentina’s Belle Epoque
6 • Yerba Regulation, Nationalism, and the Fall of Laissez-Faire Ideology
7 • Yerba Workers as a Symbol of Capitalist Exploitation
8 • Modernity, Mass Politics, and Mate’s Decline
9 • The Rebirth of Mate with Democracy, Economic Crisis, and Globalization
Afterword
Notes
Bibliography
Index